( Originally Published Early 1900's )
CEMENTS.—Dr. Choris' Magic
Mender, or " Boss " Cement. -Acetic acid, 4 Fs—the strongest—2 lbs. ; French isinglass, 1 lb. Boil in a porcelain
Remarks.—I paid $5 for this recipe, and the above is all there was
of it. The man, however, was selling it upon the street corners of this city (Toledo), and seeing what it would do, I paid
the money, but was allowed to go with him and see it made. He bought the isinglass in a 1 lb. package for $1.25, and the acid,
2 lbs. for 50 cents, including the bottle, and he had a 1 gal. porcelain kettle with him, and first put the acid in and placed
it on the stove in the hotel, kitchen where he was stopping, and when it was about boiling hot he took the package of isinglass
by the end and stirring the acid with it it soon dissolved down near his fingers; then he dropped all in, and with a sliver
from the wood, stirred it around a little all the time till it was dissolved; then commenced bottling ,it directly, by pouring
some into a milk pitcher and then into the bottles, keeping the rest hot until all was poured in. He charged not to allow
it to burn; and I afterwards found it would burn easily, hence he was careful of this, as it black-ens and destroys it. He
said the isinglass generally cost him $1.25 per lb.; the acid, 15 to 25 cents per lb.; % oz., square, flint glass bottles,
$1.25 per gross, in 6 gross lots, in Pittsburgh; and the corks, 12 cents per gross, in Cleveland, in 5 gross lots. I have
made it in those quantities and placed it on sale in the stores and know its value. It was first shown at the Centennial in
Philadelphia, under the name of " English Stratena," and the following rhyming, as given on some of the hand-bills wrapped
around the bottles, will show.
Remarks.—Where glue will answer the purpose, it will, of course, be
found much cheaper (see No. 3); but for all nice work, if carefully made, without burning, it will be found to beat it, as
it takes considerable heat to dissolve isinglass, hence its value for dishes. I sealed the bottles with No. 2 sealing wax,
Ted, for bottling medicines.
2. Cement for Tin Cans.—Into a small saucepan-block-tin is best put
1 lb. of rosin, 1/4 lb. of gum-shellac and 2 ozs. of beeswax. Melt this and mix well with an old iron spoon-both spoon and
saucepan must be devoted to the purpose, for they will be useless for all others. When the cans are ready for sealing, pour
a fine stream of hot cement from the spoon into the groove as -directed. It is better to fill it only half full, and when
all the cans are finished, give each one an additional coating. Stick labels on the can with this wax while it is hot. In
opening them, crack the wax, and with a pair of scissors or claw, loosen a portion of it. Brush off the dust; pry up the lid,
and the balance of, the wax will come off easily. Be careful that none of it falls into the fruit. Put the scraps of wax into
the saucepan, and it will help towards sealing next season's cans.—Mrs. L. V. M. A., Morrisonville, Ill., in Prairie
3. Cement, White and Cheap, with Glue, for General Purposes.—Best white
glue, 1 lb.; gum-shellac, 1 oz.; alcohol, 4 ozs.; aqua ammonia, 1 oz.; soft water, pts. ; dry, pulverized white lead, 4 ozs.
Directions—Dissolve the shellac in the alcohol, to have it ready; then put the. glue in the water, in a basin which
can be set in a pan of water upon the stove so as to dissolve the glue without burning it; when the glue is dissolved, but
still hot, stir in the powdered lead and the dissolved shellac; then add the ammonia, to keep it in liquid form, and bottle.
Remarks.—It is valuable for everything except materials where its whiteness
would be an objection. Glue is always best to be applied hot, and to hot edges when practicable, but with this it is not necessary.
Everything, how-ever, must be kept in place till dry. Leather belts or cloth must be weighted till dry.
4. China and Glass Cement.—A writer says: "To 1 pt. of milk add 1 pt.
of vinegar; separate the curds from the whey, and mix the whey with. the whites of five eggs; beat it well together, sifting
into it a sufficient quantity of quicklime to convert it into a thick paste. Broken china or glass mended with this cement
will not again separate, and will resist the action of fire and water."
Remarks.—The curd is not used, and quicklime means the unslacked lime,
but pulverized very finely before sifting in. I cannot see, however, why, if the lime is only recently burned, and good, it
may not be slacked, and the finest powder of it used. Oyster shells burned make an excellent lime for cementing with white
of eggs. I have used it. A lime of these may be used in the above if very finely pulverized.
5. Cement for Marble and Alabaster.—Portland Cement, 12 parts; slacked
lime and fine white sand, each 6 parts; infusorial earth, 1 part. Make into a thick paste, with silicate of soda. Needs no
heat; sets in 24 hours; crack is not readily found.—Druggists' Circular.
Remarks.—As stated in other places, where "parts" are mentioned, it
matters not what sized measure is used, whether a spoon, pint or peck, or if weights, whether it be drs., ozs. or lbs. Simply
12; 6 and 1, in this case, would be the number to use, or the proportions to keep.
8. Japanese Cement, To Make—Strong and Colorless—For Fancy Paper
Work, Etc.—Mix the best powdered rice with a little cold water; then gradually add boiling water till a proper consistency
is acquired, being careful to keep it well stirred all the time; lastly, it must be boiled for one minute in a clean saucepan.
This paste is beautifully white, almost trans-parent, and well adapted for fancy paper work, or other things requiring a strong
and colorless cement.