Whether that old wooden spoon you use is a mass market cheapie or a one-of-a-kind
hand crafted item, an heirloom from your great-grandfather or a future antique you carved yourself, it probably could use
some attention. How much depends on its original condition, its use, or abuse, since then, and the type of wood it is made
of. You can't change the type of wood but you can change some of its character if need be. And a little bit of time and work
can do wonders for even the most neglected wooden item in your kitchen.
The harder the wood, the smoother the possible finish. You can't get the
sheen of a maple from a poplar. But you can get them both smooth enough to be pleasant to use. It's not a trade secret, it's
called sandpaper. And patience. Its use, or lack of use, on your spoon makes the world of difference to the finished product.
So, step one is to get several grades of good sandpaper. Not flint paper.
Obtain garnet or aluminum oxide for the courser grits. If you can't find it at your local hardware store check with a woodworker.
For the finer grit papers the black colored wet/dry sandpaper is easier to find, if not at the hardware then at an automotive
store. You will want a sheet each of approximately 100, 220, 320, and 400 grit sandpapers. The larger the number the finer
the sandpaper. If your woodenware was well made to begin with, and is still fairly smooth, just the finer 320 and 400 grits
If your spoon (or other woodenware) is quite "fuzzy" it probably was not
sanded well to begin with, as is the case with most factory made spoons. Sand it starting with the coarsest paper necessary,
going with the grain of the wood. If it is quite rough you might start with 100 paper, if just somewhat fuzzy try starting
with 220. If you seem to be sanding a lot and not getting very far fast, change to a coarser grit paper.
The trick is to then wet the spoon. This will raise the grain and when it
is dry sand it again with the next finer paper, 220 if you started with 100, 320 if you started with 220. Remember to sand
with the grain and work until you have sanded out any scratches put in by the previous sandpaper. Then wet the utensil once
more. Then go to the next finer grit and sand again. And so on until you are to the 400 grit paper.
When you are ready to sand with the 400 sandpaper, wet the spoon and the
paper and sand away. Wet your paper often to keep a slippery surface on the wood. With the fine paper it is not critical to
sand with the grain so it is a bit easier. If your spoon is made of a softer wood this step may not do a lot. If it is of
a very hard wood you may want to let the spoon dry then repeat the step, possibly with 600 paper. This is especially important
for an eating spoon since an even slightly fuzzy spoon is no fun against your lips. But a well sanded hardwood eating spoon
has it all over a cold metal one!
When the utensil is dry you will want to finish it with an edible oil. Your
usual salad oil will work fine. We used RAW linseed oil for many years on the hardwood spoons we made and it worked fine.
Now we use a nontoxic resin and oil sold by LIVOS. It is faster drying (an asset when oiling a half dozen or a dozen spoons
at a time), non-yellowing (which was a problem with the raw linseed oil on new, light colored spoons), and doesn't bleed out
in the heat of the sun (not a concern in your kitchen but it was a problem for us at outdoor art fairs). With any oil make
sure first of all that it is edible.
Rub the oil in well then let the utensil set for maybe twenty minutes or
so. The time varies with the type of oil and the temperature. You want to give it plenty of time to soak in, yet catch it
before it gets sticky. After that time wipe off any excess oil with a cloth rag. If you don't get the excess oil off it will
turn sticky and gummy and can be a hair-tearing experience trying to get it off (I say this from experience). If this should
happen you can try pure turpentine or citrus based solvent on a rag to rub it off. How successful you are depends on how much
too long you waited.
Let the spoon or utensil set for a day or so to dry. If the first coat soaked
in well put on another, thin coat. Again, let it set a short time then wipe off all excess. Let it cure for another day or
two. A third and possibly a fourth light coat may be needed. The harder the wood the less oiling is required. When you find
yourself wiping off all the oil you put on then you are done.
Previously finished utensils will probably need only a few coats. Our well
used spoons take only one oiling when refinished, and only need a light 400 grit sanding to bring them to freshness, mainly
in those areas where they've become worn from use. A freshly made cherry spoon generally takes three coatings of oil, a new
maple two, and an ash or birch four.
When you are done, enjoy using your "new" spoon or utensil. You can reach
for it often knowing that when it once again needs a bit of rejuvenation, you can easily do it yourself.
I admit we are both partial to wooden spoons, plates, and bowls for cooking
and eating. Stirring your tea or coffee with a metal spoon becomes a jarring experience to one used to the gentle thunk, thunk
of a wooden spoon. If there aren't enough wooden utensils in your kitchen then think about making your own. Most woods will
make a serviceable spoon or stirrer. Though most of our work is done in hardwoods we use spoons that we have made out of basswood
and poplar, and a half dozen other woods. For an eating spoon, however, I recommend a good hard wood such as apple or maple.
A good source for instructions on how to make your own spoons can be found in "Country Woodcraft" by Drew Langsner. It isn't
a fast project but it can be a very satisfying one. Both in the making and in the using. Hand carved wooden spoons make great